Borghese Gallery & Museum - Roma,Italia. I finally made it!
Table of Contents
Villa Borghese Park sits in the heart of Rome. At nearly 150 acres, it’s one of the largest and arguably the most beautiful park in the city. Along with the lakes and manicured grounds stands the Villa itself. For 25 years, visiting this museum has eluded me. I have wanted to see the Bernini masterpieces here for ages. With Covid winding I decided this was the time do the few things that had escaped me while the crowds were down and reservations available. I FINALLY MADE IT!
The Villa and estate were established in the early 1600’s and has been a National Museum to house the Borghese Art Collections since 1902. the villa is a 17th century baroque palace built by Cardinal Scipione Cafferelli Borghese who was the nephew of Pope Paul V. Not only was he filthy rich through the church, but he was also an art lover and collector. He commissioned many of the works that are now in the Borghese Gallery itself including those of Caravaggio and Bernini. This gallery is FULL of masterpieces, so I’m going to start with my favorites and end with the odds and ends.
The Vie gallery itself including those of Caravaggio and Bernini. This gallery is FULL of masterpieces, so I’m going to start with my favorites and end with odds and ends.
The Master - Bernini
Gian Lorenzo Bernini (aka Giovanni) was born in Naples, Italy December 7, 1598. He was the 6th of 13 children (good Catholic family). His father was the sculptor Pietro Bernini. Giovanni, as we’ll call him, was a prodigy at the age of 8. Scholars and community leaders we’re in awe at his talents and artistic abilities. Even as a young boy the young Bernini became very famous as a sculptor. The extravagantly wealthy and powerful Cardinal Scipione Borghese saw talent in the young Bernini and had him mentored by world class sculptors.
Between 1619 and 1625 four masterpieces were completed by Bernini himself while he was only in his early 20’s, and all on display in the Borghese Gallery. One of the most famous of all Bernini pieces is the baldachin at Saint Peters Cathedral which is a bronze canopy over the high altar. It was completed in 1633 and stands over 94 feet tall. It’s almost as amazing as Saint Peters itself! OK – Time for the Masterpieces!
Bernini's Apollo & Daphne
Oh, to be young and in love…. This is the masterpiece I’ve been trying to see for years. This full-size marble sculpture shows the climax in Ovid’s Metamorphoses where Apollo has been struck by cupids’ arrow and Daphne struck by a love-repelling one. He chases, and she runs, until she prays to her father the God of Peneus to save her. At the moment Apollo touches her waist, her long torso begins to grow a thin bark covering, her toes take root, and her fingers grow leaves. It’s so beautiful, and perfect.
Bernini's Rape of Proserpina - 1621
This is another masterpiece of incredible artful talent and perfection. First off, the term ‘Rape’ in this title is derived from the Latin term Raptio that means to steal, seize or abduct. Not that I think that’s OK, but it wasn’t meant as the violent term we use today- it was 1621 people! That being said, I LOVE this intricate and lifelike feel of the grasp of his hand on her waist and thigh. The lifelike depth and perfect form of the indentations on her skin and strength perceived in his hold. It’s astounding to see. You can feel his grasp. The look on his face is not one of angry dominance but of controlled love. He’s almost amused. She looks concerned but reminds me of the female cat in heat that doesn’t want it but…. does. He’ll be biting her neck in no time. MEOW
Bernini's David
Here’s the windup – there’s the pitch! Bernini’s David is a beautiful creation of determination, faith, and future victory. The only difference I see between this sculpture and the Bible passage is that David, as depicted in the Bible, is as a boy that has questionable strength and ability to take down the giant. Where this guy, David, is a strapping, gorgeous muscular specimen of a man. I’d call him a stud muffin! And, if he offered me a beer and said he’d like to teach me how to throw a stone… I would have to take it under serious consideration.
Bernini's Neptune with a Dolphin
This is a small replica of the famous Neptune and Triton that was commissioned and created in 1622 for the fishpond of the Villa Montalto in Rome. It is now housed at the V&A (Victoria & Albert) Museum in London.
Jean Antoine Houdon's Saint John the Baptist
Oh, how I LOVE this statue, not sure why. It’s plaster and was created in 1766 for Versailles.
Caravaggio's David with the Head of Goliath
This masterpiece was created around 1610 for the Borghese Collection of Cardinal Scipione Borghese. According to another artist – Giovanni Pietro Bellori (1672), Goliath’s head is actually a self-portrait of Caravaggio himself. Recently it’s thought that the painting may actually be Caravaggio as a boy and the head, making it a double self-portrait! Interesting.
Bernardino Licinio's Portrait of his Brother's Family
I walked passed this painting and I stopped dead in my tracks. I looked up and said to myself, “I know that look.” So I sent just the picture of her face to a few ‘Besties’ and asked them to read her expression. Bestie #2 was more polite and said, “I should have listened to Sister Agatha when she said, Get thee to a nunnery!” Bestie #1 summed it up best, “She’s straight up pissed her husband knocked her up AGAIN and left her to raise ANOTHER kid.” LOL Meanwhile the Mister looks like he’s wondering if dinners on the stove. I wonder what this woman thought when she saw the painting completed.
Antonio Canova's Venus Victrix
This is a simply beautiful piece in completed around 1804. It’s Paulina Bonaparte (Napolean’s sister) as a semi-nude neo-classical portrait of Venus Victorious a Greek goddess. Paulina who married into the Borghese family, a union designed to help Napolean create a European dynasty. The realistic pose, soft skin, angle of her neck and face are all perfect. I love the cushioned bed, very realistic. But… sadly the gallery has local temporary artist Damian Hirst’s grungy naked mannequins lined up in the background that make this beautiful piece look more like the window dressing of a Victoria’s Secret store. I’m sure this configuration will go under the “seemed like a good idea at the time” category.
Damian Hirst - Special Engagement/Temporary Exhibit
First, let me start off by saying that I’m not an art critic or even remotely schooled in the fine arts. Second, any art that has made it into this gallery is of worldwide acclaim and I revel in the perfection, dedication and talent that the art itself exhibits. Third, I’m not an avid pursuer of modern art although I do have fun with it. That being said, this is one of those times. These pieces were interesting and the Egyptian head sculpture reminded me of a TV show, while the barnacle and coral covered bodies also brought to mind a movie. Can you see what I see?
Amen, This Thristy Explorer Needs a Beer!
A beautiful walk through the gardens and out through the arches of the Roman has me heading on a quick walk through a few landmarks on my way to the restaurant I always wrap-up my trips to Rome with. The Löwenhaus Restaurant near the Spanish Steps. The roasted pork shank is delectable and the Paulaner Hefe is DELICIOUS.
The Nitty Gritty ~
Museo e Galleria Borghese – in the Villa Borghese Park. Tickets can be purchased online here.
Spanish Steps– Always open next to the Metro Station Spagna.
Trevi Fountain– Always open and usually crowded – (try early morning)
From Leonardo da Vinci Airport (FCO) take the city train Rome-Fiumicino Airport –Leonardo Express (50mins) then, the bus to the Gallery.
From Roma Termini Station by bus take either the 92/910 from Termini Bus terminal to Pinciana/Museo Borghese stop. (10min)
Trecaffe – Nice coffee shop in the Spanish Steps area.
Moma Caffe– Delicious coffee and baked goods
I.O.B. Löwenhaus for Beers! Great German beer selection and good food.
Cantina Belsiana – Serves wine and delicious food. A local favorite.
I.O.B. Lowenhaus – located between the Spanish Steps and Piazza Popolo off of Via del Babuino is my favorite restaurant (yes favorite) in Rome. Excellent Bavarian food (roasted Pork) and BEERS! The basement has a great bar.
Tempio di Bacco – located between the Spanish Steps and Villa Borghese park. Delicious Local fare, nice outdoor patio area.
La Grotte – located near the Spanish Step is for that special evening – Delicious Italian cuisine in a historic setting.
La Creme Gelato – located near the Spanish Steps is yummy
FOR TRAVEL OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES: US STATE DEPARTMENT TRAVEL SITE
ALL trips begin with a safety brief – BE PREPARED ! Your ULTIMATE one-stop shop for International Travel Info – Passports, Visas, Travel Advisories, Country Info, STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program) CHECK IT OUT !!
FOR ALL TRAVEL PLANNING – Try out my planning sheets. The PREFLIGHT PLANNER for a travel checklist and City to City planning. The DAILY PLANNER for daily Site and Museum planning.
