Truth be told, I Was Never Much for Art Growing Up
Or history, for that matter. But I do remember flipping through posters and prints for sale at the local Prints Plus and Pier 1. (Remember those?) There they were, beautiful paintings of pastel brushstrokes calling out to everyone.
Calm, natural, uninhibited yet masterful. We all just thought they were simply beautiful and learned it was Impressionism. And so, we grew up in awe, learning quietly and vicariously about this painting style. In fact, my parents installed Monet’s ‘Waterlilies’ tile on their bathroom walls – and they’re GORGEOUS!!
So, after years of visiting France, I vowed that this time I would get tickets. I visited in Spring when they opened for the season. It was a cool rainy day, but it made for the MOST BEAUTIFUL experience in the gardens. The light, fresh water, and cool air had the garden bursting with beauty.
Prepare Yourself! You'll be Thankful You Did
You will most likely stop in Paris before heading there, and of course, Monet’s paintings abound. My favorite museum for Impressionist Art is the Musée Marmottan Monet, which shows the depth of the artist and his works. Along the Seine River is the popular Musée de l’Orangerie (click here to see the museum) that houses the grand 360° Waterlilies.
A Brief History of Giverny
It was 1883, and Claude Monet at the ripe age of 43, discovered Giverny while passing on the train. He rented a house with a large garden in the charming rural village, which he later purchased in 1890 after finally becoming successful. He was not only a painter but also an avid gardener and set out to create a living canvas. He designed the gardens – the front flower garden called Clos Normand and a Japanese-inspired Water Garden across the road.
After Claude died in 1926, the property went into disrepair. His son Michel inherited the estate, but it was neglected until the 1970s when the Academie del Beau-Arts and generous donors (Mostly American) ponied up the money to restore the property.
Hang On to Your Hats - It’s Going to Blow Your Mind!
Walking through the gardens is like stepping into his paintings. Take the time to learn about his paintings, particularly those painted at Giverny, then engage your mind as you stroll in amazement through the spaces. You’ll stop suddenly and realize you are in the exact spot where he sat painting in his garden. Honestly, there’s no better place on the planet I can think of where I’d rather drink a bottle of Calvados and take in the ambiance.
The Clos Normand – Front House Garden
The Clos Normand garden sits in all its glory in front of Monet’s pink stucco house. Spanning about 2.5 acres, it’s a sea bursting with color. The plantings have been meticulously arranged to bloom in waves from spring to autumn. Tulips in April, sunflowers in August, each season is a beautiful wonder.
Monet designed the garden as an artist would see it, planting flowers, trees and arbors with vibrant colors. The plants are incredibly vivid and layered along the pathways – Climbing roses, tulip, poppies, and iris are just a few of the hundreds of plantings on the estate. It’s like stepping into one of his paintings.
You will wander the paths lovingly appreciating the care and time it takes to create such a canvas of color.
The Japanese-Inspired Water Garden
Across the way via an underground passage, you’ll wander along a path with a stream that leads to the famous pond and bridge. Monet had collected Japanese prints over the years, and their beauty and grace inspired him. The serene landscape features a lily pond, weeping willows, bamboo, and the iconic Japanese bridge draped in wisteria. This is the setting of the world-famous Water Lilies series was created. Each painting was done in a different season and light. Morning and evening are especially beautiful, with the longer rays of the spectrum creating different moods, but they are all equally beautiful.
As you walk along the path, you’ll stop and realize you are standing exactly where he may have set up his easel to paint. The Water Garden is a place of tranquility, where you can pause and absorb the beauty that inspired Monet’s later years.
Monet’s Pretty Pink House
The restored home is even more cozy and rustic than you’d expect, but he was an artist after all, and he surrounded himself with the same beautiful things that made him feel content. Blue, green, and yellow are mixed in with wallpaper, tile, and paint, with each room having a special color and feel. His love of Japanese art is displayed in many of the rooms.
Little Blue Sitting Room
This room has a warm and lived-in feel. It’s a cozy spot also known as the reading room, where Alice is known to have read to their eight children. The walls are painted pale blue and teal with brick-colored tiles and warm rugs. Japanese ukiyo-e woodblock prints decorate the walls.
Monet’s Studio & Later Smoking Room
This room was Monet’s studio until 1899, when it became a smoking room and lounge for hosting visitors. The walls are covered with Monet’s works, and it has a stunning view of the gardens. On display is a beautifully deep lacquered desk and hutch with comfortable reading chairs.
The Yellow Dining Room
The dining room is a whimsy of yellow. It was a lively space where family and guests came together to eat and celebrate life. Monet would entertain fellow artists like Renoir, Cézanne, and Morisot. I can’t imagine so many famous painters together in the farmhouse drinking wine and eating well.
The Kitchen
My favorite room in the house, the kitchen, was generously appointed for the time. Just beyond the yellow dining room, its colors complement the yellow with the walls covered in intricate French blue and white tile, also from Rouen. A massive cast iron stove and oven sit next to the fireplace, and all around hang a gorgeous collection of glowing copper pots, pans, and utensils. A stone sink rounds out the room. It feels like home, where you can imagine the family and three cooks working there over the years.
The Bedrooms – One for Claude & One for Alice
Monet and Alice’s bedrooms were separate, as was customary at the time. His is a quiet, simple room overlooking the garden, where he slept and passed away in December 5, 1926. The walls around him were adorned with impressionist works by his personal friends, including Cezanne, Renoir, Pissarro, and Manet.
Alice’s adjoining bedroom connects through the shared bathroom, and is a modest and feminine space with Japanese Woodblock prints on cream and rose floral wallpaper. A small alcove holds a sewing machine, and a bisque cat sleeps peacefully in front of the fire.
About the Master – Claude Monet
Claude Monet (1840–1926) was the founder of French Impressionism, and many would argue the master. The style was considered revolutionary, although honestly, it was also shunned by the art world in the beginning.
He was born in Paris, but grew up in Le Havre, a small city on the northern coast of France. He found his passion for painting with smooth dabbled strokes of colors that matched the moment His style was an abomination to some in the traditional academic world. But over time, it was embraced, and when finally able, he created Giverny.
Claude’s Family Life
Claude was married twice.
His first marriage was to Camille Doncieux in 1870. They had two sons together , Jean (1867 -1914) and Michel (1878-1966). Camille often posed as his model (e.g., Woman with a parasol). She sadly died of tuberculosis in 1879 at the young age of 32. It deeply affected Monet for many years.
His Second marriage was to Alice Hoschede, who brought six children from her previous marriage. Alice had cared for Monet’s sons after Camille’s death and they raised their blended family at Giverny.
Off to the Gift Shop!
Out of the house you head back to the charming gift shop. More views of the front garden. One last beautiful looks before we head back to the car.
Off to the Next Adventure!
~The Nitty Gritty
🍺 THIRSTY STOPS:
- La Base Vernon – A short drive up the street is cool and trendy bar on the river! check the website for schedules.
- Le Botanic Cafe – at the entrance of Monet’s house.
- La Parenthese – Restaurant and bar with a patio. Dinner reservation requested.
🏰BEST SITES IN THE AREA:
- House and Gardens of Monet – Book online or better yet book a tour.
- Museum of Impressionism Giverny – just next to the Monet House and Garden
🍴 FOOD FINDS:
- Les Nympheas Restaurant and Tea Room – located across from the entrance of Monet’s entrance, serves traditional delicious French cuisine.
- La Capucine – A lunchtime establishment in the center of Giverny square near Monet’s house.
- Le Temps des Fleurs – Restaurant, Cafe and Terrace
🚗 GETTING THERE:
- By Car: From Paris take Highway A13(towards Rouen) for 55km then take exit 14 (Bonnieres). Follow to Vernon / Giverny. From the north A13 to exit 15 and follow the signs.
- By train – The Vernon Giverny Station is on the Main line from Paris Saint-Lazare Station – direction Rouen/LeHavre. a Taxi or Shuttle can be taken. Click here for the shuttle schedule.
✈️ DESTINATION PREP:
- Trip Planning Sheets! Use my Planning Sheets – The PREFLIGHT PLANNER for a travel checklist and city-to-city planning. The DAILY PLANNER for daily city site and museum planning. I USE THEM!
- FOR TRAVEL OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES: The US State Department Travel Site – ALL trips begin with safety in mind! This site is helpful to EVERYONE WORLDWIDE! I begin by looking at this site for all the latest Worldwide Country Info – Passports, Visa requirements, Travel Advisories
- Enroll in the STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program) – Enrolling lets the State Department know where you are in an emergency and can help you home if needed.
