The Charming Village, Historic Wineries & A Dreamy Medieval Castle
Soave Italy is one of those towns that brings excitement as you get closer. The region is in the Veneto, and is known for its delicious Soave Classico wine among others. You can learn more about Soave wine by reading my post on Cantina del Costello, the only winery inside the village walls that has a passageway from the cellar that once led underground to the castle! Soave is located just east of Verona off E70 between Verona and Vicenza, and as you approach the walled village on Viale della Vittoria from the highway, Piazza Cavalli is just to the right of Porta Verona which is the entrance through the castle wall. You are welcomed with a large bottle of Soave at the roundabout and a castle view peeking from the hilltop. Look up as you enter Porto Verona to see bottles of vino bottles hanging from the ceiling and an antique wine press.
Table of Contents
A Delicious Lunch Awaits
Just inside Porto Verona is the main road through the village and it’s lined with charming wine bars, restaurants and gelato shops. I stopped and sat at an outdoor table made from a wine barrel at Sauvis Nobis and I enjoyed a glass of delicious Soave Bianco. As you look up the road you see the town’s flag and just behind it a medieval building the Palazzo di Giustizia from the Scala era built in 1375. Under the arcs is the restaurant Enoteca Il Drago where I headed for lunch with a delicious plate of pasta and another glass of Soave wine.
Pieve di San Lorenzo Martire - The Cathedral of San Lorenzo the Martyre
Just before the town flagpole is the beautiful Baroque Cathedral of San Lorenzo the Martyr (Pieve di San Lorenzo Martire). Originally built in 1303, it was torn down and rebuilt in 1758. The interior is beautifully innate with 16th century paintings and a remarkable ceiling fresco running the length of the nave. Look up and see Christ at the right hand of God striking down the devil with a lightening bold. The wood crucifix of Christ dates to 1553 by famed sculptor Paolo Cahanpsa. The restored pipe organ was built in 1889 by the Englishman George Trice.
After a Delightful Lunch it's Time for a Rocky Climb to the Castle!!
Enoteca Il Drago is a popular restaurant sitting in the beautiful arches of another medieval building where I enjoyed tagliatelle con tartufo nero – a pasta with shaved black truffles, and of course, another glass of Soave! The view from the restaurant terrace is perfect. After lunch I stepped out into the square and looked up the hill. The castle tower peeks above the trees, and the path to the castle was in front of me. At the top of the lane a small sign that points you towards the Castello di Soave. Begin your climb along the vineyards and historical buildings until you reach the top. It’s not too far. About this time you’re thankful or wishing for good hiking shoes because the path is exceptionally rocky. At the top of the path you encounter the main road where you’ll see the outer walls, drawbridge and a small opening to the entrance.
Costello Di Soave
Costello di Soave is a delightful medieval castle from the 10th century. You can read my blog post about the Costello. It’s Walls were built around the village in the 15oo’s. The fortress was fought over for hundreds of years, until it was lovingly restored. You will LOVE walking the ramparts and the VIEWS! Authentic renaissance frescos adorn the walls and towers. Visit the dungeon and look up to the trap door where prisoners were lowered down. It’s a true military fortress and it’s one of my favorites!
Wineries
My recent travels to wineries in Oregon had me thinking I could drop in and do a tasting at the different cantinas in the area. I had wonderful experiences with my Soave Classico tastings, but it’s preferred that you call ahead and make a reservation and verify the tasting times. I observed restaurant buyers immersed in tasting to pair with their fine menus. A clear, crisp Soave Classico is perfect for any meal, but especially those with seafood or rich and tastes.
Cantina del Costello
Rocca Sveva di Cantina di Soave
Just outside the walls of the town is the winery Borgo Rocca Sveva and is also in walking distance from the Porto Verona walled gate. Their showroom and tasting bar beautifully showcase all of their wines and you can browse and purchase at your leisure. If you call in advance you will be able to schedule a tasting.
Time to Head back to Verona and Cena (Dinner)
My tour and lunch was sadly over for this trip. Delicious wine, historic wineries, a beautiful castle, baroque church, all things that make a trip to Italy perfect is in this town. The record heat was a challenge, but the views were well worth it! I walked back down to Porto Verona where vintage produce wagons and winemaking tools are on display in the tower. The town walls majestically stand as they have for 600 years. There are more wineries, churches and historical sites to visit so I bid farewell until next time – and I will be back!
Ciao for now ~ Angela
The Nitty Gritty
Costello di Soave– 10th Century Castle
Pieve di San Lorenzo Martire– The Cathedral of San Lorenzo the Martyr
Piazza Cavalli – Piazza just outside the Porto Verona gate with art sculptures
Porto Verona– Main entrance gate through the medieval walls.
By Car – Soave is east of Verona, just north off A4 at the Soave/San Bonifacio exit. Head north on Viale della Vittorio (SP37) to the wall entrance of Porto Verona.
By train – Trains arrive to Soave at the train station in San Bonifacio. Bus 130 Takes you to Porto Verona.
By Bus – Bus from the San Bonifacio train station AND from Verona is number 130. Bus from Verona can be caught at the main train station and along Corso Porta Nuova. Cost is around 4Euros and takes 45 minutes.
Suavis Nobis– Wine bar just inside the walls at Porto Verona
Cantina del Costello – 10th Century winery in the walled village
Bar Tre Garofani– coffee, beer, wine and bus tickets just inside the walls at Porto Verona
Rocca Sveva di Cantina di Soave – winery and showroom to purchase local wines.
Osteria La Scala – Homemade Pasta and local wines
Enoteca Il Drago – Specialty restaurant in the Historic Palazzo di Giustizia.
Il Bugi La Belle Epoque– delicious pasta, anti-pasta and wine.
Pizzeria Aquario SOAVE – Pizzaria outside the walls at Porto Verona across from Piazzo Cavalli.
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