Discovering the Magic of Sacro Bosco
Are you looking for a fun and whimsical afternoon for the entire family? I’ve found your place! Each time a picture of the Oculus from Sacro Bosco has scrolled past my mobile screen, I’ve stopped and wondered if the Park of Monsters is as fun as it looks. This Thirsty Explorer can enthusiastically tell you YES!
Table of Contents
Upon entering, you’ll receive a map of the park. As you stroll the picturesque pathways, you’ll happen upon moss covered monsters, buildings, and animals that appear around each turn in the pathways. Some peek out from the foliage of the woods and others are found either up or down stone stairways to different levels of the park. The various creatures and figures along the paths are both grotesque and fascinating.
So, On with the Show!
The Entry Gate and Sphinxes
When purchasing a ticket, you’ll be provided a map and upon entering the castle gate you’ll see one as well. Here are some of the pieces of art you’ll see when visiting: Inside the Park is where the real Thirsty Exploring begins. Each creation in the garden is and has been interpreted in many ways. Inscriptions abound on many of the sculptures, and you will find each piece of art interesting and I think… FUN! As if entering a magic kingdom, the entrance gate is a castle embattlement with merlons on top. Through it, you see a glimpse of the First Sphinx.
The two Sphinx are the first sculptures you encounter. She’s a lion with a woman’s head, and ten breasts adorn her. To the right is her matching sister facing her. Each one has an inscription. The inscription on the right is particularly poignant, “Whoever does not pass through this place absorbed and in silence does not even appreciate the famous seven wonders of the world.” I do appreciate the seven wonders of the world and also this garden!
Proteus Glauco – The Greek Sea God
Down the path to the left of the entrance is the statue Proteo Glauco, The mythical sea monster that takes on different forms is shown with a globe on its head and symbols of the Orsini family. Whimsical, I would say.
Gigante - Hercules fighting Cacus or…a Poem?
Back down the path is a stone stairway that leads to “Gigante,” which depicts two giant men fighting. Two theories swirl around this sculpture. To some, it’s a depiction of the massive Hercules fighting Cacus! As the story goes, Hercules, the Roman giant, fought and killed Cacus, the Roman fire-breathing cannibal who lived in a cave in Rome.
To others, it’s inspired by the poem “Orlando Furioso,” which describes a disparaged knight. Orlando finds out his love Angelica lost her virginity to a low-ranking soldier of his army and, in a jealous rage, fights him.
The Orcus
Climbing the mossy steps into the “Mouth of Hell” and entering the dark cave makes me think of Alice in Wonderland falling down the rabbit hole. The inscription above the door is “ogni pensiero vola” and translates to “every thought flies.” As you enter, the acoustics inside release any thoughts you may have spoken under your breath as any whisper or talk is amplified for all to hear. It’s fun to finally experience the climb up the steps to the inner grotto. If it’s busy, you’ll hang out watching everyone get pictures in the mouth. It’s the only statue you can go into, and it’s very cool, literally and figuratively.
Roman god of the underworld, Orcus is probably the most famous and iconic of the sculptures on display in Bomarzo Monster Park. Inscribed on his upper lip are the words: “OGNI PENSIERO VOLA,” which translates to “All thoughts fly.” The cavernous interior created a space where someone deep inside can whisper and someone at the base of the steps can hear it.
Is the wide-open mouth of Orcus shouting? Or is he just hungry, inviting you in for a quiet cool lunch at the table of the inner sanctum? Is that table a tongue or uvula? Some think that eating at the table is eating – while being eaten! Food for thought, no pun intended!
Ruling the Waters: King Neptune's Majestic Presence
Piazzale dei Vasi is a lovely piazza lined with giant urns. At one end sits King Neptune relaxing on a bluff overlooking Delfino the dolphin to his left. He’s massive and imposing.
The Leaning House of Imagination
Two stories up from the stadium path is the Leaning House. This lofty structure is an excellent addition to the grove of crazy imagination. You either climb the steps from the lower level or enter from the second floor and cross a little bridge to enter the house. The inner rooms are at the same angle as the house itself. Have you ever been to a vortex? Not, a whirlpool of water, but a place where actual energy fields are split and circling. creating the illusions of people being different sizes in different places in the same room? Well, check out the Oregon Vortex for examples of what I’m talking about. But back to Sacro Bosco, The Leaning House is similar in that you wander around feeling unbalanced. It’s whimsical fun for sure. It’s written that this house is perhaps dedicated to Cristoforo Madruzzo, a Catholic Cardinal at the time.
The Elephante
The elephant statue is said to represent one from Hannibal’s Army. Hannibal was the leader of the Carthaginians, and after losing to the Romans in the First Punic War, he crossed the Alps in 218 BC with his army of 30,000 soldiers, 15,000 horses, and 37 war elephants. He attempted to take the fight to the Romans, but in the end, he was defeated. Still, the history of it is monumental. ‘The Elephante’ is gripping a soldier in his trunk, showing the power it has over man.
The Turtle and the Whale
Up the path, you come across a large Turtle with a whale’s head to his left. Not scary or outlandish. On the turtle’s back is a statue of Nike, the goddess of victory, and to the left, in a low valley, is a whale’s head whose mouth full of sharp teeth is open as if to take a bite. It’s kind of hard to see it’s a whale… but it is.
Mythological Figures Abound - The Flying Pegasus Fountain, Sirens, Dragons, and Lions Everywhere
The winged horse Pegasus sits atop a fountain. A winged horse from Greek mythology appears to be flying out of the basin. A Dragon fights off Lions while Sirens, winged and scaled, appear down the path.
The Temple of Eternity
The Temple of Eternity is a small temple that sits on a high meadow at the top of the stone steps from the ‘Piazzale Pigne’ or Place of Pine Cones because of the piazza lined with sculptural pine cones. The Temple / Church looks to be styled in the appropriate Renaissance style and was built to honor Orsini’s wife, Giulia Farnese. It also is the resting place of Giancarlo and Tina Severi Bettini, who restored the park in the 1970s.
Salvador Dali's Fascination with the Enchanted Forest
Not known to everyone visiting the park is that Salvador Dali, the famous surrealist artist known for his striking and bizarre images, visited the park in 1938 and was fascinated by the Sacra Bosco. The visit had a profound impact on his art and artistic style.
Dali was drawn to the grotesque and macabre sculptures. The surreal and fantastical sculptures in the garden inspired Dali to incorporate similar themes into his work, and this can be seen in the painting ‘The Temptation of Saint Anthony’ that shows (to me) a naked St. Anthony in the desert grasping a cross, holding it up to repel a parade of pencil legged elephants carrying nude temptations.
Additionally, Dali’s visit to the Sacra Bosco influenced his interest in religion and spirituality, which some say can be seen in his Biblia Sacra series of watercolor paintings, which feature surreal and fantastical interpretations of biblical scenes. I’m not sure if I see the relationship, but it’s Dali!
The History of Sacro Bosco ~Through Sorrow Comes Fantasy
Once upon a time, in a small Italian town, a baby was born into nobility. The year was 1523, and the newborn baby was Pier Francesco Orsini who would come to be known as Vicino, the Duke of Bomarzo. He became a General in the Pope’s army during the Italian Wars, and after fighting in several violent military campaigns, he spent years in prison. When released as a Prisoner of War, he returned to Bomarzo. It’s not clear exactly when she died, but in any case, his beloved wife, Giulia Farnese, passed away.
The origins of Sacra Bosco can be traced back to the 1550s when Vincino commissioned a park as a tribute to his late wife. Being nobility, he hired the famed architect Pirro Ligorio (1512-83), who had worked for Pope Paul IV and Pope Pius IV and had recently finished St. Peter’s Basilica after Michelangelo had passed. Likewise, he found fame as an architect, garden designer, and painter working on the Tivoli Gardens. He is also credited for helping restore the ancient Roman aqueduct, the Acqua Vergine.
During this same time in the early 1500s, other mythical statues were completed in the region. One of these is Hercules and Cacus in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence, which was created to complement Michelangelo’s David. Since Ligorio had completed St. Peters after Michelangelo’s death, I wonder if this inspired Ligorio to suggest a giant Hercules and Cacus at Sacro Bosco.
If, in his grief and sorrow, Orsini dedicated this “villa of wonders” to his beloved wife. I can’t help but wonder why he would choose to create monsters. Another history of the creator suggests that perhaps he was also inspired by his interest in mythical creatures from Etruscan and Roman mythology. This makes sense, considering many of the creatures are mythological.
Restoration of the Garden
When Orsini died in 1585, the garden fell into ruin and was abandoned. The garden became overrun and overgrown by plants and moss. Over the years, the park underwent several transformations, with the latest renovation and restoration performed by Giancarlo and Tina Severi Bettini. Their restoration of the park was a long and difficult one that took several years to complete. They are now appropriately laid to rest in the Temple of Eternity
Although it’s called a park of monsters, I think you will find it interesting and fun. The sculptures were designed to be a beautiful and grotesque place of both wonder and mystery. Maybe centuries ago, the sculptures became a scary sight in the darkness of night. They were meant to inspire awe and fear in those who visited the park and were designed to reflect the natural world. The sculptures were placed in such a way as to create a sense of harmony with the surrounding landscape.
It’s a lovely place, and even on a busy day, it can be a relaxing experience. Several large grassy meadows can be found throughout the park for kids to run and play while families and couples rest in the sun or under the shade of the beautiful trees.
A gift shop and snack bar greet you after the ticket booth, and accompanying the entrance building is a restaurant where you can enjoy a great meal. My Thirsty Exploring included a delicious espresso on my way out.
The Nitty Gritty
Sacro Bosco – The wonderful park is open daily at 9am. Tickets can be purchased online or in person at the ticket office. Parking is free.
Castello Orsini– The Orsini Castel of Soriano is a fortress dating back to before 1200. It sits nestled above the medieval village of Soriano. For all the sights in the village check out this page!
Etruscan Pyramid of Bomarzo – A beautiful wooded walk from Bomarzo to an ancient village.
By Car: From Viterbo – Viterbo-Orte Highway SS675, Bomarzo exit
By Train: Station Orte Scalo then Bus – direction Bomarzo Timetable info: http://www.cotralspa.it
The snack bar at Sacro Bosco – refreshments and drinks at the park.
Titty Bar – A small stop for drinks and snacks, 10 mins drive west off Hwy A1 in Attigliano.
L’etrusca Bistrot – Delicious local dishes with Etruscan influence and a BEAUTIUFUL VIEW on the terrace.
La Fraschetta degli Antichi Sapori – A local restaurant with homemade pasta, patio views & Etruscan cellar.
Tutto n’artro magna– A family run business focused on local ingredients from their farm!
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